GamJams-Midwest.net

GJ-MW Tech: The Aluminum Race Bike

Welcome to GamJams Midwest Tech, where we check out new gear and gadgets designed for bike racers like you.

Last fall, I had the good fortune to have in my possession a pair of nearly identical cyclocross bikes. While I wasn't exactly storming the Midwest with my two-bike arsenal (that would be this guy), I had a fair amount of fun and recorded a couple of decent results. 

One was a Trek Cronus CX Ultimate — the top-end carbon race bike. SRAM Force-equipped with Avid Shorty Ultimate brakes. The other was a Trek Ion CX — the aluminum sibling of the Cronus. They had identical equipment, down to the handlebars, seatposts and saddles.

Though I rode and raced them both for their intended purpose, I finished the season favoring one over the other. I liked the aluminum one better. Why? Well, there are a few reasons. (Though I should say first off that the Cronus is a fantastic bike. I love my Cronus.)

• Durability. You know how people describe wheelsets as "bombproof?" That would work for the Ion CX frameset, too. I rode that bike hard, and not once did I worry about the consequences. On the flip side, I saw a lot of broken carbon in the fall. Four bikes by my count. 
• Price. That Ion came into my hands through the generous shop discount I had when I was a bike shop guy. Even without that discount, though, the frame retails for $809.99. The Cronus frame retails for $2,199.99 (and has the same fork). 
• Ride. It goes without saying that any bike with 30 psi in the tires is going to be pretty smooth, but never did I feel like I was sacrificing anything by racing an aluminum bike. That could be becasue I'm not that good, and what I do does not require a carbon bike. But I won a race and was on the podium in another on that bike. It didn't do me wrong. 

Put those things bullet points together, and I think it makes a compelling argument for going with aluminum over carbon for cyclocross — especially if you're paying full retail. But what about on the road?

Yeah, what about aluminum for the road? Do the same rules apply?

Taking into account my experience last fall, I decided to make the switch for my 2013 road bike as well. After reading reports from local riders on 16.5-pound aluminum builds (that didn't cost a fortune), I went with the Specialized Allez Race. Aluminum frame, carbon fork and steerer, nice, smooth welds and a black-on-black paint job. Pretty cool looking bike. It retails for $2,400 with SRAM Rival and DT Swiss Axis 4.0 wheels. (The frameset-only price is $880.) Cannondale has a number of iterations of its popular CAAD10 aluminium race setup in the same price range.

After swapping out parts — SRAM Force, 3T build kit and my faithful Dura-Ace wheels — I took it for a quick test ride. And it was fantastic. It is, of course, stiff. And thanks to fortunate geometry similarities, it feels exactly like my Cronus setup. It has a slightly different road feel, which is to be expected. It has a different hum than my previous carbon bikes had.

And the performance? I can summarize that by saying I probably won't buy a carbon race bike again. I raced it a few days after the build was complete and noticed no difference in performance whatsoever. It's light, it's stiff, it accelerates swiftly on command. And it's reasonably inexpensive compared to a similar carbon build. 

Plus, it is a worry-free machine for me. I'm not talking about mechanical bits or maintenance. I'm talking again about durability. If it ends up on the pavement, it will most likely suffer scrapes and scratches, or maybe a dent. I can't say that about a carbon frame, though I've been lucky so far. Let's just say I've become a lot more sensitive to that issue since having to pay for my own bikes after leaving the bike shop. Before, I always had the attitude of, "Eh, I'll figure something out," if a bike broke. And now it's, "Can I pay to replace this cabon wonderbike? No? Better ride something I could replace if I had to." 

Would I like having a carbon race bike? I would — I enjoyed the heck out of the series of bikes I've been able to race over the past few years. But as a guy who serves often as pack-fill, I think I'll be just fine with this one. I'll check in toward the end of the summer with an update.

Gj-MW Tech: SRAM Force

Welcome to GamJams Midwest Tech, where we check out new gear and gadgets designed for bike racers like you.

SRAM signaled its intentions for the future a few weeks ago when it introduced its new Red 22 and Force 22 groupsets. Both groups will go to 11 speeds on the rear, matching the efforts of Shimano and Campagnolo.

For Red 22, which will look the same as "new" Red, not much has changed beyond the extra cog. Force 22 gets a number of upgrades from the current 10-speed system. What's been lost in the product-release buzz, though, is that Force was just updated in the fall. It picked up a number of the traits of "old" Red, including Zero-Loss shifting, a re-branded Red crank and stiffer chainrings.

When we were building up a new bike this spring, we headed straight for the Force section of the catalog. Every single road and cyclocross bike that's lived in our garage since 2009 has been Force equipped? Why? It's light, it works well and the price is right. We'd all love Red or Dura-Ace, but for most of us it's just not going to happen. Force has treated us well over the years.

The old "new Force" — as in the one before Force 22 — is essentially the old (pre-redesign) red, minus the carbon shift paddle. It features the same ZeroLoss shifting as the former top-tier design at the same price as the 2012 model.

Cosmetically, the ZeroLoss Force shifters are almost identical to their predecessors. The only way you can tell the difference is the tiny print on the inside of the shift paddle (right). Click on that image to blow it up if you have to.

Performance-wise, though, they're a big notch above. For the uninitiated, ZeroLoss means that as soon as you press the lever, you're shifting. Well, almost. There's a millimeter or two of play before the paddle starts pulling cable. Compare that to the old Force shifter — and especially to a Shimano mechanical shifter of any stripe — and it's a much quicker shift.

Will that make a difference a race situation for your average amateur-racer hack? Probably not. But our imaginations are very active here, and we like the crisp feel of the ZeroLoss shifters. We like them so much we're going to try to find another set before everything goes 11-speed.

When you can get top-end performance for mid-level price, that's a smart buy in our book. And when the guts are essentially the same as the old top-end bits (which are still perfectly wonderful)? That's hard to pass up. If you're a SRAM rider and embarking on a new build, the "Old New Force Which Used to Be Red" shifters should be your first purchase.

Gj-MW Tech: Specialized Propero II

Welcome to GamJams Midwest Tech, where we check out new gear and gadgets designed for bike racers like you.

 It's been well documented by now that I have a strange head. Not size-wise — it's strikingly average at 7 1/4, much like my skills on the bike. No, it's the shape — oblong with a nice little bump on the back. It makes finding a comfortable helmet a chore.

Last season I wore a Lazer Genesis in the L/XL size. Lazer's lids are awesome because even if they're a little big, they don't look too big. Well, unless you're Michael Creed. But this year I changed teams, and this squad rides Specialized lids. That worried me. A lot. I've had to do a bit of sandpaper work with most of my other helmets to carve out material to help them fit better. And on one, I used a Dremel.

After a few weeks in the Specialized Propero II helmet, though, I can tell you my fears were unfounded. It's light, it moves air well and it's comfy. I did have to use a bit of sandpaper, but it was the quickest modification I've done.

The Propero II is third on the Specialized road helmet hierarchy, though it shares the same shape as the range-topping S-Works Prevail. The difference is weight, a few aesthetic tweaks and $140. The Propero II retails for $110 while the Prevail is $250. In between is the older S3 for $180.

The first thing you'll notice with the Propero II is the weight. It's light. No, I don't have a scale. Specialized doesn't have weights listed on its website, so it's hard to make a good comparison compared to my outgoing Lazer. But it's lighter than what I've been using. Whether that makes a difference in performance remains to be seen.

Adjustment is handled by the Headset retention system. It's a small, clicky dial not unlike Giro's Roc Loc 5 or Bontrager's Headmaster. The Headset cradle itself goes all the way around the helmet — there are no insertions into the helmet's foam near the temple. That makes for a smooth surface up front for your forehead, but also allows the ring to conform to your head a bit. The dial is easy to adjust, even with heavy gloves on, and the back of the cradle can adjust vertically to accommodate different-shaped domes ... like mine.

The straps of the Propero II are lighter than my old lid as well. The material is very light and pretty soft. Other than for the total length of the straps, though, they're not adjustable. That works OK for me, because they fit below my ears as they're supposed to, but it might be an issue for some.

There is a lot of exposed foam on the back of the Propero II — a lot more than I'm used to seeing. The two black stripes that look like stickers are actually reflective. It's a nice little touch that I happened upon accidentally. Pretty cool.

But enough of the nuts and bolts — how does it ride? It rides very nicely. I spent last weekend in the saddle (all day, both days — literally) and the Propero II was along for the ride. It performed as every good helmet should: I forgot that it was there.

For those who don't have strange heads like me, the Propero II will probably fit right out of the box. It's among the first $100-or-so helmets that actually offer a lot of compelling features along with the price. Typically, there's a big sacrifice to hit the price point. (Lazer's O2 helmet, for example, only comes in two sizes: One size fits all and XXL.)

Faced with $250 to spend and the Propero II and Prevail in front of me, I'm not sure I'd go for the higher-priced model. Though the Prevail looks a bit nicer and I'm pretty vain, I'm also pretty ... ahem ... budget conscious. I'd be temped to keep the extra cash and blow it on a set of tires. Or jellybeans. Man, I love jellybeans.

Gj-MW Tech: Survival Kit

Welcome to GamJams Midwest Tech, where we check out new gear and gadgets designed for bike racers like you.

We don't believe in jinxes, so there's no hesitation on our part to say this: Winter ends today (in Omaha, at least). And that's the season of winter, and its tendency to be cold for long stretches, not random cold days. We'll still get those.

With that out of the way, it's time for a general well-being question. Did you get through winter OK? Did you get your miles in? Are your somewhat adequately prepared to race sometime soon?

We can answer in the affirmative to the first two, but rarely do we ever feel really, really prepared to race this early in the season. Even so, we'll probably do OK, and it's because we had a few tricks up our sleeves that helped us get through the winter.

Vacuum mug

This is just basic science at play. If you fill two bottles with water and it's below freezing, they will freeze. Some people put whiskey in their bottles, which tastes horrible and is a waste of whiskey. And sometimes the bottles will still freeze.

We added a vacuum mug to the arsenal this winter and filled it with apple cinnamon tea for long, cold rides. Ever burned your tongue on a ride on a 15-degree day? We did, an hour into it. And, pain aside, it was fantastic. We had something to drink the entire time, and filling up again at a gas station was no problem. Find one that fits in a bottle cage and allows for one-handed use, like the Stanley Nineteen13 mug, and you'll actually be able to keep drinking on a cold ride.

Toe warmers

The most common complains on a cold ride? Frozen hands and feet. We started using charcoal activated toe warmers a few years ago and haven't looked back. In fact, we ditched our winter boots this year and just used toe warmers with our regular road shoes and heavy shoe covers over the top. Chilly at times, yes, but never frozen. If you're a Costco member, you can get 30 pairs for $12 or $13.

Liner gloves

We had to think about this for a little bit, but we realized we got our winter gloves — the really heavy ones — about five years ago. They've lasted a long time. But, as winter gloves tend to do, the insulation is breaking down a bit. They're not nearly as warm as they were a few years ago (or we're softening up with age).

We grabbed a pair of running gloves to use as a liner on a particularly cold day, and it was like a revelation: warmth. Not just "not frozen," but actual warmth. It was fantastic. Should the ride heat up a bit, just lose the liner glove and you're still fine.

—

Everybody gets through winter in their own way — hey, you have to do what works best for you. But we prefer to be outside as much as possible. This stuff has helped us do that, and it may well work for you, too.

GJ-MW Tech: Castelli Mortirolo Due Jacket

Welcome to GamJams Midwest Tech, where we check out new gear and gadgets designed for bike racers like you.

When out for a ride in cooler weather, I always get a chuckle when I see a fellow rider completely bundled up, as if their ride will be taking them through the Yukon Territory. This tends to start happening below 50 degrees around here. Full-length tights, balaclava, thermal baselayers ... it's a sight to see.

I tend to dress a bit lighter than everybody else, even when it's actually cold. For some reason, once I'm warm I generally stay warm. Give me a good hill near the beginning of the ride and I'm good to go. Because of that, I've generally eschewed winter cycling jackets. Most of them would simply be too hot.

Recently, though, after a team switch and subsequent gear purging left me without warm things, I headed to the bike shop and checked out winter jackets. In my experience (selling them), Castelli has made the best jackets over the past few years. The materials and fit are spot-on, and they look good. (Yeah, I'm vain.)

I ended up with the Castelli Mortirolo Due jacket, which retails for $179.99. Should you shop around (now's the time, after all), you could probably find one on sale for significantly less. It will warm up, eventually, and most shops are keen to get rid of this stuff.

The Mortirolo checked off all of the boxes I had on my list: reasonably lightweight, wind-blocking panels in the front (backed by lightweight fleece), zippered vents, locking zipper, three rear pockets, tall collar, good looks. The back panels have standard fleece, which Castelli calls Warmer.

With wind-blocking panels up front (made by Gore), I can wear a lighter baselayer underneath. The vents help keep air moving when it warms up, and the locking zipper can be left "open" to easily open the collar a bit when climbing. Having pockets on a jacket makes it easy to carry stuff, and the tall collar speaks for itself. It's cold out there sometimes. And, of course, it's a sharp-looking jacket.

Castelli rates the Mortirolo (named after the Italian climb) for use from 45 to 60 degrees. That is insane. You would die if you wore this jacket above 50 degrees and climbed any sort of hill. That said, if you're wearing a winter jacket at 50 degrees, you're doing it wrong, anyway. And 45? You can go way, way, way lower than that.

Over the past two weeks, I've pushed both the upper and lower limits of the Mortirolo. (We've had pretty sketchy weather.) I've had it out in the wind and in the dampness, too. If you want to skip the rest of the review, this next statement will help: This is a fantastic jacket and you should get it if you ride outside all winter.

On my first ride, wind chills were in the teens. I wore only a lightweight sleeveless baselayer underneath and was plenty warm. I finished that ride with the vents open, actually. A few days later, wind chills were in the mid-single digits. I went with my trusty thermal baselayer and found myself almost too warm. Impressive.

One long weekend ride started very cold but warmed up significantly along the way. By the end, when it was nearly 45 degrees, I was wishing for another vent to unzip. But only once over the course of the ride — on a long hill attacked at race speed — did I feel seriously overdressed. I hate that feeling, but I was happy to have the wind panels on board as we ripped down the other side of the hill.

In a more temperate area — a few hours south of here, for example — this jacket might be too much for all but the coldest of winter. In that case, it's hard to spend almost $200 on something that might get worn for a couple of weeks each winter. But for those who endeavor to ride outside as much as possible, even when it's super-cold, the Mortirolo will do the trick. With the proper baselayer, it can handle even low-single digit riding easily.

As a footnote, Castelli also makes a similar jacket with full wind-blocking fabric — the Zoncolan (a previous version was called Stelvio). Without the vents up front and venting fabric in the back, that would, indeed, be a warm jacket. But probably too warm for all but a few riders.

GJ-MW Tech: Bar Tape Modification

Welcome to GamJams Midwest Tech, where we check out new gear and gadgets designed for bike racers like you.

Like any good racing cyclist (good meaning diligent, not fast), I have a pile of parts on and around my workbench that can best be described as, "I'll need that someday."

This is, of course, an easy way to justify hoarding. In all reality, I will not be using most of those parts again — not for any reason other than to take up space. But last week, I actually DID find a use for spare bits that have been hanging around for years.

In the summer of 2009 (probably), when I was assigned to clean out random crap at the bike shop, I came across an unused set of Bontrager IsoZone gel pads. For some reason, I decided I'd definitely need those someday.

At the time, I used flat-top bars and Fizik bar tape. Though standard Fizik tape is unpadded, a flat-top bar provides more surface area and helps lessen vibrations compared to a round bar. Because of that, I don't wear gloves except in races. I just don't need the padding. And I had no reason whatsoever to take those pads home.

I switched bikes in the fall, going to a round bar in the process. The stock tape was a gel-cork style, so going sans gloves was no big deal. But with spring looming, I decided to freshen up the bike in preparation (new tape, chain, brake pads, cables, etc.) last weekend. But now I'm faced with round bars and unpadded tape. What to do?

Someday has finally arrived for that old bar padding. After trimming the top section down a bit — it went too far toward the hoods intially — I positioned it in what I thought was the ideal spot and wrapped it up. It added the slightest amount of bulk (maybe 1mm?) and offers just a little bit of cushion. It's by no means squishy, and it should do the trick.

Under the tape

Finished product

For those who don't have access to old crap from a bike shop, the Bontrager version is still available, as is a similar setup from Fizik. Because it won't get dirty or otherwise exposed to outdoor nastiness, a set of gel pads will likely last for years. For those who with hand or wrist issues, it might be $20 well spent.

GJ-MW Tech: Bontrager Node 1.1 & Dual Sensor

Welcome to GamJams Midwest Tech, where we check out new gear and gadgets designed for bike racers like you.

In my bike shop days, we fielded a fairly large number of phone calls and saw a number of visits concerning cycling computers. Not "Which one is better?" or "What functions does it have?" No, it was, "Why isn't my computer working?"

More often than not, it had to do with the alignment of the magnets and sensors. Or, rather, the misalignment of magnets and sensors. 

Trek solved the problem on its higher-end carbon models with a little trick called DuoTrap — a sensor that sits in a built-in port on the non-driveside chainstay. Put the magnets in the right spot and you're done. There's no adjustment of the sensor at all. Bolt it in and go ride. Pretty cool.

Today, though, I'm Madone-less (which is regrettable, as it was a nice bike), so I've been checking out other options. I've grown fond of having speed, cadence, heart rate and ride time on one screen, so I picked up an Interchange Digital Combo Sensor (speed and cadence) from Bontrager. It's designed to pair with its ANT+ Node computers — the 1.1 and 2.1. I'm quickly realizing why we got so many phone calls.

The first impression of the Node 1.1 is a positive one. The packaging is reminiscent of Apple's packaging. Rather than toss everything in a small plastic bag, there's a little insert (right) from which your building materials are presented. It's a nice touch. The sensor is less fancy — it's just zip-tied to a cardboard card. That's pretty standard operating procedure.

Mounting the computer on the stem is straightforward: Zip-tie the base in position, click on the computer. Done. It's a nice, multifunction computer that does what it says it will do. No complaints there.

The sensor was a different story. It still involves zip-ties, but only because of the fairly unique proportions of my chainstays. The bike du jour is a Trek Cronus CX Ultimate. It has big, chunky, rectangular stays, making the included rubber strap (seen here) designed to mount the sensor a non-starter. No way that's going to work. So we go to zip-ties.

On round or ovalized stays, this would not be a problem. But the square stays of the Cronus make it tougher to get the sensor attached good and tight. And so, we cinch and swear and pull really hard — and it gets close. But not close enough to stay exactly where we want it. On a recent ride, my speed numbers dropped out. So I stopped to readjust slightly. Then the cadence numbers blanked out. After about 10 minutes of monkeying around later, I have it lined up again. But for how long?

This is by no means a non-endorsement of the Node setup or dual-sensor piece. They're both well-made pieces of bike bits. And the Node 1.1 is a very nice update from the original Node 1 model. Rather, this is a call to more manufacturers to start thinking about integrated solutions — that DuoTrap (and a similar system from Giant) is looking really good right now. (You could also say that idiots like me shouldn't be trying to attach sensors to cyclocross bikes. And that would be fair.)

Because if a guy like me — with enough shop time to have seen it all (or close to it) — finds it frustrating, I can't imagine what it's like for everybody else. No more zip ties, please.

GJ-MW Tech: Bontrager Race Thermal Bibshorts

Welcome to GamJams Midwest Tech, where we check out new gear and gadgets designed for bike racers like you.

We're big fans of versatility around here. Much like a rider who can do a little bit of everything — climbing, time-trialing, sprinting, etc. — we like clothing that performs well in a number of situations.

That's why we don't have a dedicated winter jacket or wind-front bib tights. Pieces like that don't always see much wear. If you have a winter like last year's, you might only need them a handful of times.

Instead, we like to make use of our favorite spring/fall pieces and simply add a layer ... or three. To that end, we've been devotees of thermal bib shorts for a couple of years now. They fit better than most tights and, with the help of knee and leg warmers, can convert into knickers or full-length tights.

The updated Bontrager Race Thermal bibshort only makes us like this setup more. We've been wearing the original model for two winters now, and have grown to love that comfort and versatility. For 2012, the Race Thermal bibshort has been completely updated. Better fit, better pad, better grippers, same price: $119.99.

Bontrager updated its entire lineup of summer bibs for 2012, and the Race Thermal takes that design and winterizes it. The fabric from the outside looks like a standard bib, but on the inside you'll feel a lightweight fleece. It's not as heavy as the fleece in the previous model, which we liked a lot. We haven't noticed any differences in warmth out on the road.

We have noticed the improved fit, though. Where the old version had a fit best described as "good enough," the new Race Thermal bibs have a fit that's on par with our favorite summer bibs from Capo. Part of this is due to the updated pad. The old version was a flat, thin bit of foam that was adequate for 2-to-3-hour rides. The new pad is an anatomic (meaning curved and sewn in that way) design that easily lets you handle 4- or 5-hour rides — perfect for long base-miles rides.

The final piece of the improvement puzzle is the new leg gripper on the Race Thermal bibshort. Castelli broke ground a few years ago by eliminating heavy elastic and silicone grippers on most of it's mid-to-high-end shorts. Instead, the company added a 2cm cuff that was woven with a heavy Lycra threadcount. Since Lycra has many rubbery, elastic properties, the band feels grippy to the touch. When stretched, it gets really grippy. Bontrager uses a near-identical gripper cuff to great effect. It holds warmers in place securely with no sagging or sliding.

Through a few hundred cold, sometimes damp miles, we've been very, very pleased with the performance of the Race Thermal bibs. We enjoyed the original quite a bit, but that piece has been moved to second-tier status with the arrival of the new design. They're worth a look if you like versatility and great fit in your cycling wardrobe.

GJ-MW Tech: Castelli Thermolite 13 Socks

Welcome to GamJams Midwest Tech, where we check out new gear and gadgets designed for bike racers like you.

Here in the Midwest, where winter often means snow and cold (except for last year), having appropriate gear is the difference between 200 hours of trainer time and actually going outside.

For us, hands and feet are always the most important bits. The number of wool socks in our drawers is bordering on "collection" status as we search for the perfect socks for a wide variety of temperature ranges.

The latest contestant in this never-ending game is the Castelli Thermolite 13 Sock. This tall, warm sock is built with hollow-core polyester fibers, which work to trap warm air and keep it near your skin. The tops have a lighter-weight weave that helps with venting, while the bottoms are just thick enough to provide good warmth without adding a bunch of bulk.

The Thermolite 13 is billed by Castelli as a between-seasons sock. We have no idea what that means. Between which seasons? The actual seasons? Racing seasons? We'd be better off if the Italians just said "cool-weather socks," but that wouldn't be very Italian of them. 

We took the Thermolite 13s out over the weekend for a ride that began with wind chills around 8 degrees and finished with ambient temperatures around 30. We used our standard setup of charcoal toe warmers on the bottom of the foot and the Bontrager RXL thermal bootie on top. We were concerned a bit about the tops of the socks — that area seemed really lightweight — but that concern was unfounded. The Thermolite 13s worked as well as any wool sock in our collection.

The fit was spot-on, no doubt thanks to the built-in stretchiness of the socks. While we love wool, we have several pairs that go heavy on wool and light on stretch, making the fit a little sloppy. There are no such problems with the Thermolite 13s. They feel like a stretchy summer-weight sock. We're looking forward to testing them on those 50-degree days where shoe covers aren't needed but summer-weight socks will leave your toes cold. 

If you're looking for a good-looking, high-performance sock, the Thermolite 13 is a good place to start. We'll let you know how it performs between seasons ... just as soon as we figure out when that is, exactly.

The Thermolite 13 comes in white or black and retails for $19.99.

GJ-MW Tech: Lazer Rollsys Taillight

Welcome to GamJams Midwest Tech, where we check out new gear and gadgets designed with you, the bike racer, in mind.

Like a lot of cycling gear, helmets are starting to get caught up in the "lighter, stronger, aero, BETTER!" war that forces you to consider replacing everything every year, lest you be left behind. While Lazer, the Belgian helmet maker, certainly has it's top-dollar, lightweight lid, it's also been making its helmets more functional by creating inexpensive, worthwhile accessories.

The Aeroshell is a must for any rider with a compatible Lazer helmet. When the bitter-cold wind howls, or when the rain is coming down, the snap-on cover closes the vent and keeps the cold and wet out. It's among the most valuable pieces of 20-cent plastic we own, and it stays in place pretty much all winter.

Lazer also offers a winter pad kit (that includes earflaps) and an integrated system for sunglasses using its own Magneto eyewear. We can think of no other companies who have offered so many add-on accessories for their helmets.

The newest useful, inexpensive option is called the Rollsys Taillight ($12). Instead of a dial on the back on the helmet, most Lazer helmets have a small drum on top of the helmet that handles tension adjustment. If you take a close look at the drum, you'll see it's hollow. Hmm ... what could we put in there?

How about a light? The Rollsys Taillight is essentially a tiny insert that includes a pair of red LEDs and two batteries. It has a constant "on" mode, as well as a blinking mode. To activate it, just press on the light and you'll hear — and feel — a nice click. That'll be great with gloved hands.

Installation was pretty easy, too — less than 5 minutes. Here's what it looked like:

The first thing you'll do is remove the plastic plate that surrounds the Rollsys adjuster. Though the little diagram makes it look like a simple, happy process, we had to use the sharp end of a letter opener to pry it loose. And when it did pop out, the two posts that secure the plate into the helmet broke off. We had to yank them out with needle-nose pliers. Luckily, you won't need that plate anymore.

You can see the difference between the two plates. The one in the foreground is the original. The one in the back has a cutout on the end that will provide more visibility for the light. This taillight kit is available with black, white or silver plates.

Yep, this is it. The cap on the left slides over the guts on the right and fits pretty snugly into the hollow Rollsys barrel. The kit comes with a pair of extra batteries as well.

After that, snap the new cover on and you're done. It's a simple, inexpensive way to make sure you always have a "just in case" light with you.

That said, the Rollsys Taillight, while pretty bright for a tiny little light, should definitely NOT be considered a replacement for a bright, clamp-on blinky. Rather, this is an unobtrusive auxiliary unit that can provide a little bit of extra visibility. It's bright, but not that bright.

And, again, it's $12. We'd like to see more companies get on board with simple, inexpensive accessories for helmets like Lazer has. Not only do they make our gear more functional, they can also help add a little bit of safety. Hard to argue with that.